Gay Paris bars from soft to hard.
By Jesse Hultberg

In every metropolitan capital where there is a visible gay scene one should expect its nightlife to splinter off in all directions. Paris and the Marais are no exceptions. I’d say Paris is even more varied than most cities. After all we are not all the same and we don’t all like the same things. Edwina likes Lacroix, Patsy has her bottle and Saffy her books.  

SOFT or “Just a nice place to sit, drink and watch people”

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A favorite pastime for many Parisians, gay and straight, this one is a piece of cake. Edmund White the American author who once lived in Paris, titled one of his books The Flaneur meaning a person who hangs around without a purpose observing and watching, but especially allowing the spectacle to unfold on its own. This will be the sitting and drinking version of that.

What I look for in this type of bar is some colorful variety in the crowd and a low level of sexual tension. People might be flirting but they’re not cruising.  Perhaps a decent air filtering system would play a part too if everyone is smoking.  Paris risks to ban smoking in bars but it hasn’t gotten there yet and even if it does I’m sure the bars will find a way around it as they do in New York. With some exceptions I’m focusing on bars for men though some of these bars are also cafes and/or restaurants too that certainly do not exclude women.

l’Enchanteur –Hidden behind a door that you might easily pass without noticing is this friendly bar that charms and entertains on rue Michel Lecomte. When introduced to a stranger the first thing you say in French is enchanté. Well that should give you and idea of the ambience here. The age group is varied and the look is innocent and not pretentious. It’s a be yourself type of place. The extra bonus is the downstairs. While many Parisian bars sport backrooms in their lower parts, l’Enchanteur uses this beautifully renovated a l’ancien space for singers, shows and other fun things. Easily avoided upstairs if you prefer.

Duplex –Just a few doors down from l’Enchanteur the Duplex is known as the intellectual’s spot where often a local artist exhibits his photos or paintings. It’s a lovely bar that welcomes you with an engaging innocence. Friends in their 30s meet after work to decompress here. Tables on the upstairs balcony offer an intimate view where you can watch the happy hour from above. The furtive looks of young men searching Mr Right add to the innocence without creating a sexual tension.

Amnésia –More on the beaten path than the two previous bars I’ve mentioned Amnésia is a bit younger and perhaps a bit more “Marais” in the gay sense.  These boys might live in the burbs or outer arrondissements and here they are “out” in the Marais having fun. Cell phones and cigarettes complete the look but it’s part of the rainbow we all know and love.

CUD (upstairs) –Every time I go here my first reaction is damn! These guys can drink! In fact CUD has a backroom downstairs on the weekends but the crowd upstairs generally ignores it and amuses themselves getting blasted and having fun. Frankly it’s a pleasure to watch even if you don’t drink.

Le 49 –A pleasant New York style cabaret that replaced “Le Masque Rouge”. French classics and 80’s style music mixed with the more recent icons, this is the best place to hear singers perfect their style. 49 rue des blancs manteaux,75004, just facing the full metal.

Banana Café –Not really in the Marais, but close to, Banana Café remains an institution on the circuit especially in the fashion scene.  I haven’t been there in years but I feel obliged to mention it here. Ok that’s done.

Carré –A modern lounge with comfortable chairs filled with boys in clingy tops made from fabrics unknown in the plant or animal kingdoms.

SEMI-SOFT or “A place to watch guys and pretend you’re not”

A special note about rue des Archives or what I refer to as “The Strip” The Castro, Christopher Street, Chelsea, West Hollywood, Warmoestraat, Schöneberg or Old Compton Street The Paris equivalent is the intersection of rue des Archives and rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie in the heart of the Marais. Just fake a sneeze when trying to pronounce it. If they hear croix they’ll know. A relatively recent phenomena this intersection has become gay central. The four businesses that comprise the main gay circuit of rue des Archives have certain particularities that need mentioning. The visibility of these establishments add to their notoriety but what is really going there?

Open Café - In the words of any good real estate agent it’s all about location. Smack dab on the corner sprawls the Open Café offering .....openness? Everyone goes there at one time or another but they might not admit it. Sort of like MacDonalds.

Cox –Cruisy, muscled Parisians and tourists with a touch of attitude. Fills to the max around 7pm and blocks the traffic on the sidewalk until 9:30 or 10 and then empties out completely until they all come back the next night. If a visiting friend insists that we go I often strike up a conversation about flower arrangements or feng shui in a loud voice just to see the reaction.

Les Maronniers –Food service at all hours which is convenient and nice chestnut trees in front of a big, outdoor terrace, hence the name Maronniers.

Le Carrefour –Mostly straight during the day when suddenly at 7pm, guys of different ages and looks fill the place. This bar/cafe is for those who prefer sitting comfortably outside with a beer rather than being pushed around the sidewalk at Cox.

Depot –not on rue des Archives and in fact a large backroom bar, the Depot falls into this category because the main occupation here is watching and pretending not too. It’s big and confusing with a dance floor and a million empty, messy cabins. Careful of pickpockets and the overpriced coat check.

SEMI-HARD “A good place to meet guys but not a hard leather bar”

Paris has more gay bars with backrooms than any other city I know.  The fad has slightly declined recently only because of the enormous competition and perhaps the sluggish arrival of internet cruising which is just now gaining its stride compared with other countries. One gets the impression that Parisians are hooked on enhanced reality and scoff a bit at lonely virtuality.

These are the bars that may or may not have a backroom but do have a cruising atmosphere nonetheless. They differ in age groups and styles but you can be sure that you’ll be experiencing gay Marais reality and not the Internet. They are usually busy after work and before dinner from 7pm to 9pm when happy hour prices kick in and then enjoy a second wave around midnight. Sunday happy hours are often popular too.

Quetzal –When I first moved here in 1990 this was THE bar to go to. Even if the center of the storm has moved a few streets away I find that the Quetzal remains a pleasant neighborhood bar that attracts all different sorts including out of towners. The new chrome and glass decor gets a lot of criticism but I think it’s fitting for a bar that had its glory days in the late 80s. Now they just need an 80s night where we can listen to Human League, Eurythmics and Dépeche Mode and the circle will be complete.

Bear’s Den –Yes it’s a bear bar and yes the crowd is on the “natural” side. On rue des Lombards, the Bear’s Den shares this mostly pedestrian street with numerous gay restaurants and stores that are listed here on the site. The age group edges to the late 30s and more but I’ve seen all ages here. The small upstairs tends to bottleneck when there are a lot of “natural” guys there.  But don’t worry there are 2 other levels below in a nicely decorated labyrinth that includes a dance floor, a mini backroom and a mini lounge where “natural” men can be seen lounging in their “natural” habitat.

One Way –the other bear bar with the caps hanging from the ceiling. The One Way has a split personality. Generally friendly and drunk upstairs, then ravenous and Caligula-esque downstairs. Be careful where you sit and always count your change.

MicMan –Same crowd as the One Way but open at noon with friendly barmen and cleaner.

Central –Another institution that needs mentioning. A harmless bar with a practical location the Central is known more for the hotel of the same name that is probably the most expensive no star hotel you can find.

HARD or “The city of light when it gets dark”

With the exception of Berlin or maybe Amsterdam (though I still think Paris wins) hard sex bars do very well. Practically unknown now in the United States and very few in England, Paris continues its long established tradition of tolerance and freedom and in some cases encouragement of open sexual contact. If the tide is changing you wouldn’t notice in these places.

The clientele of the hard cruising scene overlaps but has specific nights that work best for specific bars. It’s useless to arrive anywhere before midnight (except for the Bunker) and in some places preferably around 3 or 4am. Many have strict dress codes or undressed codes. They all provide a coat check service that is generally trustworthy. I’ll try to be specific but I warn you these bars are for those looking for hard action and sometimes the spectacle can be a lot for the prudish at heart. Let’s start with the most extreme. That way we can catch our breath later.  Both of these bars have been around for about 30 years and are just outside the Marais, the Transfert on the west and the Keller heading east.

Transfert – Tucked away on tiny rue de de la Sourdière (perhaps a word that shares its roots with sordid?) near the Palais Royal is the long standing haunt called the Transfert. No other bar can touch the level of sexual spectacle that I have seen here. Without a real dress-code or age group or specific look, and because the 2 rooms that comprise the entire bar is the size of some American washrooms, anarchy reigns and all is permitted. There is no place to hide. If you’re not someone who wants to participate this is not the bar for you. The rest of you (and you know who you are) will love it. It really gets going between 4 and 6am and is slamming on weekends. I suggest you leave your valuables and clothes you wish to stay dry at the coat check.

Keller –Located in the Bastille on a street of the same name, Keller is considered the main leather bar of Paris and perhaps the largest in Europe since it has pushed through ancient walls in the basement dilating its space.  The owner Robert explained to me that he was opposed to showing pornography specifically to encourage the customers to be the show themselves.  A lot of attention has been given to decor and lighting and a clear effort to create a hard sex atmosphere.  It succeeds very well in the more controlled and coded sense of the leather scene. Thursdays are notorious FF nights and private parties with various themes occur on Sunday afternoon. It’s often filled on the weekends too but the hardcore crowd call the weekend amateur’s night.  Strict dress codes and best between midnight and 4am.

QG –The QG is hidden behind the Pompidou Center on which looms in the background as you press the bell to enter. Like the Transfert, QG has no dress code, no specific age group or cabins to hide in. So it’s a participatory experience but with a slightly more innocent atmosphere. At the Transfert you could easily witness the action the middle of the room. At QG they would go downstairs first. I suppose because there IS a downstairs!! Another all-nighter QG closes around 6am.

Full Metal – Keller’s little brother is on rue des Blancs Manteaux just a hop, skip and a jump from QG. The leathery dress codes are strict and highly accessorized and somewhat precious. There’s a cage in case you want to play gorilla.

Glove –Despite the strange unpredictable hours and the curious moody personality of the owner who really needs a vacation, this bar has a small following.

l’Impact –A naturist’s bar, not to be confused with bears, that insists you check all your clothing at the door except your shoes. Sort of like a sauna with no water or towels.

The Bunker –The former Docks that was a former sauna but now without the water and towels is outside the Marais near République. Direct and without any social atmosphere whatsoever The Bunker’s naturist Tuesdays and Thursdays packs them in. It’s very popular among the sexually serious. Busy hours from 8 to 11pm.

Next –Also just outside the Marais is this new, promising large cruise bar that has not quite found it’s crowd yet. Fridays are called Ritual Men and seem to be the night to go.

There you have it in a hard nut shell.