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PARIS MARAIS
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The New Design Boutique Hotel « Emile », located at Metro Saint Paul.
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Benoit, Alain Ducasse’s Bistrot celebrates its 100th anniversary

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Parismarais Newsletter
Issue 86 September 2012
www.parismarais.com
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LE MARAIS FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

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Bonjour Parismarais Readers,

The time of swimsuits is over… not to worry any more about your waistline. Now, it is time to offer you the best of the restaurants in the Marais ! The parismarais.com team has selected the finest spots to pleasure every tastes. We are delighted to celebrate the hundred anniversary of Benoit, Alain Ducasse famous bistro where the meals will enchant you. A stop at Monjul, Le Bouledogue, Carette or Le Dome du Marais is always a treat and we are waiting for the new menu of Des Gars Dans La Cuisine ! Enjoy the end of summer sitting around the best tables.

A Bientôt

Pascal Fonquernie,
Editor

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BENOIT

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Paris le Marais Favorite restaurant Paris le Marais Favorite restaurant
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Paris le Marais Favorite restaurant Paris le Marais Favorite restaurant
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There is no place more Parisian bistro than Benoit. The only bistro in Paris to have one Michelin star, this restaurant located in the heart of Paris near Les Halles and the Marais is a true champion of the tradition. His cuisine profoundly embodies this rich culinary heritage with incredible generosity in both product quality and impeccable service. This house, taken over in 2005 by Alain Ducasse, celebrates its centennial in 2012 and proposes to revisit some of his recipes for the occasion, reflecting its history and authenticity. This is the only place in Paris where you can taste Nantua sauce (made from crayfish) accompanying a filet of monkfish. The calf's head sauce Ravigote, representing the Benoit spirit, is a rarity to be savored with delight, not to mention the slices of browned black pudding garnished with two apples. Desserts such as profiteroles, Napoleons, Savarin a l'armagnac, crunchy chocolate cake with praline also demonstrate this generosity. Decidedly as proclaimed in the motto of the House, invented one evening by Lesage, loyal customer of the house: " Come to Benoit's and once you're in, you'll drink and feast just like a king". Best value at lunchtime with a 3 courses menu at 36 euros.

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LE DOME DU MARAIS

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Paris le Marais Favorite restaurant Paris le Marais Favorite restaurant
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Nestled in the heart of the old Mont de Piété auction room inaugurated in 1777, the Dome du Marais is an elegant restaurant uniquely decorated and offering fine, traditional French cuisine with an Asian touch. Taste sea bream tartare with lime, ginger and herb salad (16 euros) or green pea ice cream with mint (9 euros) before discovering other fantastic dishes. The lamb with vegetable ratatouille jam (26 euros) or the veal liver and carrot puree with bacon and caramelized sherry (27 euros) literally melt in your mouth. The lunch options are particularly attractive (19 and 32 euros). In the afternoon, it becomes a wonderful tea room where time seems suspended. Enjoy a lovely selection of teas in the sunny winter garden and let your mind wander while admiring the original objects that form the decor.

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LE GASPARD DE LA NUIT

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Paris le Marais Favorite restaurant Paris le Marais Favorite restaurant
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A semi-gastronomical traditional cuisine has found it’s home in «chez Gaspard de la nuit», in the rue des Tournelles. The menu, known for its fresh produce delivered daily, proposes a lovely selection of «reinvented dishes», nonetheless keeping their authenticity. Treat yourself to their famous steak with black pepper sauce (29 euros), possibly one of the neighborhood’s best. The rabbit with lavender (18,50 euros) or the escargot ravioli are also delicious. A bistrot menu at 25 euros is also available (entree +main course +drink) every day except Saturday. The wine cellar is bursting with veritable treasures at reasonable prices that Myriam, the owner, unveils with gourmandise. Among the impressive selection are some real finds such as a côte du Rhone, côte rotie 2006 - les essartailles (68 euros) or a Chateau LaSalle de Poujeaux 2005 Second vin du Chateau Poujeaux Moulis. Reserve your table in advance, as space in this popular restaurant is limited.

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OZO

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Paris le Marais Favorite restaurant Paris le Marais Favorite restaurant
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OZO reinvents the concept of a restaurant, offering its customers the opportunity to get involved by composing the food they want to taste. At OZO, you choose between meat and fish, different sauces and flavors, as well as the number and type of accompaniments. Made a la plancha on individual griddle pans, you choose the cooking, the flavor blends, and in a way become your own chef. Products, always ultra-fresh, come directly from the Rungis market. The menu offers choices that ensure you always end up with a very tasty combination. The Bento style presentation highlights the originality of the compositions. (from 19 euros to 29 euros)

Beyond the original and enticing concept, OZO also offers a fabulous selection of cocktails to enjoy late into the night or to start the evening which, doubtless, will be rich in flavor and taste surprises. Note the happy hours from Sunday to Wednesday from 19:30 (cocktails at 7 euros). Indulge yourself with countless creations such as the Fraise B (“Strawberry B”, 11 euros) or a champagne piscine framboise (“raspberry champagne pool”) (15 euros).

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MININES

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A glorious feat for the former Café Baci ... Now known as Minimes, this trendy restaurant in the Marais reinvents the classics of French cuisine and delivers a choice of creative dishes made by chef Jean-Philippe Leboeuf (formerly the chef at the Crillon, the Bristol and Georges). In a chic ambiance with an impeccable quality of service, you can, until 11:30 am, enjoy a French breakfast (orange juice, toast with jam, pastries and hot drinks). Both the lunch and dinner menu will delight your eyes and your taste buds: Multicolored tomato and mozzarella salad, artichokes, ham, “French” lamb chops, shoulder confit, braised carrots, roasted sea bass, green beans and tomatoes, lemon crème brulée, fruit pie, and for a snack, "the Scoop" of ice cream for 3 euros is a perfect refreshing dessert. The club upstairs, more intimate, cozy and “design” is a great place to meet friends. A prix-fixe menu at lunchtime, consisting of two gourmet dishes, is a deliciously good value at only 14 euros!

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LE TRUMILOU

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Paris le Marais Favorite restaurant Paris le Marais Favorite restaurant
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Idéalement situé quai de l'Hotel de ville, face à la pointe de l'Ile saint Louis, vous apprecierez la cuisine traditionnelle de qualité servie au Trumilou dans un cadre pitoresque fleurant bon le terroir. Parmi les grands classiques, laissez vous tenter par le Canard au pruneaux (17 euros) ou le Ris de veaux grand mère (23 euros). Un menu à 20, 50 euros (22,50 euros le we) ainsi qu'une formule à 16, 50 euros renouvelés quotidiennement vous sont également proposés. En saison, le gibier est à l'honneur ainsi que les incontournables de la cuisine familiale. Vous pourrez déguster des plats plus rares tels qu' une délicieuse tête de veau (14 euros) ou l'assiette de cochonnaille. La carte des vins offre une belle selection et laisse aussi la place aux vins régionaux avec notamment un excellent saint pourçain (17 euros les 75 cl) ou un Saint Chinian (28 euros), cuvée baptiste 2007.

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SALENTO

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Very close to the Pompidou Centre, the restaurant Salento welcomes you warmly and invites you to discover a generous, authentic Italian cuisine with a wonderful selection of fresh pasta, small «aumônières» (different, delicious fillings wrapped in thin pastry) or rigatoni that will transport you to Puglia and its surrounding regions. A good selection of antipasti (10 to 18 euros), including the Burrata Pugliese & Prosciutto di Parma or the excellent Green Cabbage Rolls with chestnuts, speck (cured ham) and cream of parmesan (12 euros) will whet your appetite before continuing, according to Italian tradition, to a first course (primo) and / or a second course (secondo). The ricotta gnudi dumplings (13 euros) or those with mushrooms and eggplant (15 euros) are absolute «musts» to try. The wine list also offers a nice selection such as a Monte Pulciano d'Abruzzo (32 euros) or a Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio (40 euros). A taste of Dolce Vita in the Marais.
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LES BOUGRESSES

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Right off the charming Place du Marché Sainte Catherine, this restaurant will seduce you with it warm welcome and inventive cuisine. Try a millefeuille of ham, tomato and mozeralla (8,50 euros), fried duck foie gras or a gourmande salad available in small or large portions depending upon your appetite. Main dishes (between 15 to 20 euros) draw from a repertoire of traditional cuisine, notably roast duck breast with figs (18 euros) or veal kidney with mustard grains and a house purée (20 euros). The weekend you can tuck into a two dishes formula for just 15 euros. There’s also a lovely selection of wines to choose from, notably a Pessac Léognan 2004 (36 euros) or a Côte de Provence Golfe de St. Tropez (23 euros). The atmosphere is cozy and you’ll certainly want to return for more good food under the aegis of Constantin and Mickael and those lovely “bougresses” (trollops) of the Marais. Another bargain is the two dishes menu for 24 euros every evening (starter + main dish or main dish + dessert). Enjoy.

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LE BOULEDOGUE

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Paris le Marais Favorite restaurant Paris le Marais Favorite restaurant
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Very close to Beaubourg and many art galleries, the Bouledogue is a culinary rendez-vous for lovers of art, culture and those with the taste for things of quality as well as authenticity. In an atmosphere that is both lively and warm, in the tradition of great Parisian brasseries, the Bouledogue offers a classic menu which includes entrees like leeks vinaigrette served warm (8 euros), bone marrow or Saint Marcellin with lard accompanied by toasted Poilane bread (11,50 euros), and main courses such as  tender sirloin steak with fried shallots, green salad, and "allumette/couteau" thin French fries (18,50 euros) or duck with pepper sauce, all to be enjoyed without moderation. You can finish off your meal with a marvelous fudge custard (9 euros) or a home- made iced nougat with red fruit sauce while enjoying the comfort of the wide moleskin seats under the benevolent eye of Elliot, the much- loved Bulldog

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LE SANCERRE

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Close to the Square du Temple and boasting a panoramic terrace in the heart of the Haut Marais, the gourmet bistro Le Sancerre offers a traditional, unpretentious, generous, and seasonal cuisine served non-stop from 11h to 23h with a wide wine selection as well. Lovers of « a la plancha » cooking or fresh fish will be impressed, not to mention of course the meat lovers. Try their famous hamburger served with pommes-allumettes French fries at 14.80 euros, accompanied with a local wine from an ever-changing selection available by the glass (starting at 3.90 euros), including some from organic or independent producers. The Morgon or Château de Corcelles are very popular. For snacks, a selection of Poilane sandwiches and salads is available. In the evening, an entrée + main course + dessert is about 25 euros. Le Sancerre is a popular wine bar to have happy hour, with a large selection of cocktails (both alcoholic and non- alcoholic) where friendliness is the rule.

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AU BOURGUIGNON DU MARAIS

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Close to Hôtel de Ville (City Hall), located on a street of Gallo-Roman origin opening onto a terrace, the Bourguignon du Marais welcomes you to enjoy a delicious and traditional cuisine. Gratin of crayfish tails in Chardonnay (14 euros) or six large Burgundy snails with garlic and parsley sauce (12 euros) will awaken your palate before continuing with a lovely selection of meat or fish. The veal kidneys with home- made purple mustard purée (23 euros) or the Boeuf Bourguignon Tradition (21 euros) will delight you. The soul of this restaurant is to be found also in the exceptional wine list, which is exclusively from Burgundy. The Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2008 "Les champs Gains"  Jacques Bavard (69 euros) or The Hautes Côtes de Nuit 2009 Jayer-Gilles (9 euros per glass) are just some suggestions among a constantly renewed selection of high quality.

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LE ROYAL TURENNE

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Very close to Place des Vosges, opening onto a panoramic terrace, traditional Auvergne and regional French cuisine awaits you at Royal Turenne. Beef steak topped with a slice of foie gras and morel mushroom Brouilly wine sauce, frogs legs Provencal (13.80 euros) or garlicky bone marrow with bearnaise sauce are some dishes on the menu. The « planches de montagne » (13 euros) charcuterie entrées are recommended for lovers of patés and cooked deli meats. A 3 course "Turenne" fixed menu at 19.90 euros is also available. In season, you will find stewed hare and coq au vin. Fish lovers will also appreciate the freshness of the products, which all come from Grandcamps in Normandy. The surprise of the Royal Turenne also lies in its large "collection" of wine. Amateurs of young and old wines, try the excellent Sancerre Domain de la Garenne (Godon-Reverdy) or the Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru, which are just a few examples in a rich menu of more than 80 types of wine. Do not hesitate to seek advice from the chef and his wife, who masterfully run this traditional restuarant.

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CARETTE

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Carette, on Place des Vosges, amidst modern art galleries and the Pavillon de la Reine. A Parisian institution, the original salon is on Place du Trocadero near the Eiffel tower. This second luxurious space, in the historic heart of Paris, is designed by Hubert de Givenchy. The elegant interior is pure Louis XVI style. On offer are gourmet breakfasts, celebrated flavorful macarons, croissants and other artful pastries. A complete brunch can be had any day and any time. There are sorbets and ice cream, too. At tea time (between 3 p.m. and 6 p.m.) you might opt for subtle and delicious finger sandwiches or a plate of 5 mini-macaroons. A range of choices for a discerning palate are on the menu. The fabulous decor is reminiscent of the glory days of the former Place Royale. Marie Antoinette would have loved this spot.

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MONJUL

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The food is delicious, the staff is wonderful, the decor is simple but very tastefull… and it’s less than 35 € for 3 courses. Even better deal for lunch 3 courses at only 20,50 €. We can really call Julien Agobert’s cuisine a trompe l’œil cuisine... creative and always surprising! Monjul has opened in may 2007 and it’s already one of the Marais Top 10 restaurants. Julien and his team will welcome you like friends and surprise you like no one else ever did before. Be sure you book to get a table !

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LA PLACE ROYALE

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Place des Vosges was formerly known as Royal Square. And La Place Royale is a fitting name for this wonderful restaurant on the south side of the square, just near the Victor Hugo museum. And you’ll have a royal experience, indeed. While maintaining the French grand tradition of cuisine, its southern French cooking is constantly inventive. And fine quality is matched by low prices. The lunch menu is 18 euros and the generous dinner menu includes an aperitif, starter, main dish, dessert and ½ bottle of red or white wine per person, followed by a cup of coffee. All this is under forty euros. With impeccable service and a warm welcome La Place Royale is our top choice for 2010. Try the vegetable tatin, the prawn brochettes and the gourmet coffee with homemade ice cream. The terrace on the loveliest square in Paris is extra added plus. Come quick, but don’t forget to reserve! Arnaud Lessatini and Frédéric Paquet, the two creators, welcome you as friends.

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DES GARS DANS LA CUISINE

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The address which became «the place to go» in the north of the Marais. Bistronomique, gourmaniaque, delifantastic… One does not find enough neologisms to qualify this intimate setting with the well- polished decoration and the inventive menu which revisits the great classics with inspirations from all corners of the globe. The crockery is refined and original as is the presentation of the dishes on and off the blackboard. The menu changes in September-October, except for the divine Hamburger "SPECIAL DES GARS " which is always there. Don’t be worried about the bill, approximately 50 €: more than reasonable taking into account the quality of the products… Do be worried about losing your heart to this restaurant, on the other hand, because you are likely to when you get a taste of the devastating smile of the waiters and the rauchous humour of the two owners : Jean-Jacques Delaval and Gil Rosinha, the chef. Come see for yourself ! At lunchtime, the fixed- price menu appetiser/main course or main course/dessert is 14 €. Generous Brunch on Sunday at 21 €. High-class wines at reasonable prices… Imperatively reserve if you want to have a table, even during weeknights.

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LES CAVES SAINT GILLES

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If you're searching for true Spanish flavors, try Caves Saint Gilles! A veritable institution for 20 years, Caves Saint Gilles offers the country's best gastronomy, respecting the authenticity of its products as well as its regional diversity. A wide selection of tapas (hot and cold starting at 5.80 euros) and exceptional paella (on weekends and bank holidays, 22 euros) appear alongside dishes with fresh prawns (Gambas Pil Pil, 18 euros), Navajas (grilled razor clams, 17 euros) and fish unequalled by anything but the delicacy of their Jamon Iberico Pata Negra (26 euros). The wine list offers some wonderful surprises: Marques de Riscal, Paternina, Albarino (available by the glass) and excellent sangria de la casa.

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PAIN VIN FROMAGE

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Pain Vin Fromage is the type of restaurant you'll never find anywhere else -- it's all about cheese! Did you know that France has over 400 different kinds of cheese to choose from? At Pain Vin Fromage, you'll be able to try from 5 to 20 of them, depending upon your appetite. Simply select a region and discover the cheese -- they offer a wide selection starting at 17€. Taste fresh Burgundy wine and indulge in fondue from the Savoy or Burgundy regions for only 16€. Enjoy the taste of nature and tradition without thinking about your waistline -- cheese is full of protein and calcium, just go easy on the bread! Pain Vin Fromage lets you really savour French traditions, especially those that will most please your senses.

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VINS DES PYRENEES

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What used to be a wine merchant is now a charming, romantic traditional French bistrot with antique post card memorabilia adorning the walls and an old-world charm. The cuisine is one step up from the usual offering; the menu changes frequently, but you might find such creations as: Salade d'artichauts à l'oeuf poché et crème de lard, Poêlée de champignons et escargots, Fricassée d'encornets au pistou, risotto crémeux à l’encre de seiche, Saumon de Norvège rôti à l'anis étoilé, and Souris d'agneau braisée aux choux verts. Be sure to take a souvenir "carte de visite" – it's a recreation of a World War I post card picturing two lovers and the notation :
"Lorsque de tes deux bras, tu entoures mon cou, je me rappelle notre premier jour au Vins des Pyrénées, le petit bistro où tu me souris pour la première fois ..."

Do not miss the Fabulous 2 course menu for lunch at only 15 euros !

 To discover all these great addresses, and many more, please visit our restaurant guide

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CASERNE DE SEVIGNE
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And for those who missed Bastille Day in Paris, do not miss our complete report and new film on the famous « Bal des Pompiers ». This year Parismarais.com was honored to be The Official Media Partner of The Sévigné Fire Station for Bastille Day celebrations.

  Complete report and new film

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LE MARAIS MAP, DOWNLOAD FOR FREE !

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To prepare for your trip to Paris,
you can download the exclusive Parismarais map of le Marais for free !

Be sure to print out both sides A and B
of the map by clicking on the following links:

  SIDE A

  SIDE B

 

You can also visit the following page where you will find more maps of Paris and le Marais as well as selected places to visit - photos and addresses will “pop up” as soon as you click on the colored dots.

Fabulous, n'est-ce pas ? : parismarais.com/map-of-le-marais.htm

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Parismarais Newsletter, September 2012
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