HOTEL DE SENS, MASTERPIECE OF XVth CENTURY ARCHITECTURE, RESIDENCE OF THE QUEEN MARGOT.

A few steps from the surrounding walls of Philippe Auguste, in the direction of the Seine river, do not miss the Hotel de Sens, located in rue du Figuier. This street was originally lined with houses dating from the 16th to the 18th century, however they were torn down in the 20th century because of their unsanitary conditions. In the 1950s stone buildings inspired by classical references were built, as well as low-rent housing. Rue du Figuier illustrates how the restructuring of the Marais was envisioned in the 20th century. The Hotel de Sens, which now houses the Forney library, is nevertheless one of the few examples of civil Parisian architecture from the Middle Ages, besides the Hotel de Cluny. The Hotel de Sens therefore deserves a visit during your discovery of the Marais. Looking at the facade of this building which has undergone many transformations in its history, you will come across an architecture retaining its military aspect with two sets of buildings, turrets and bay windows. The turrets allowed the monitoring of the surrounding streets and ensure the safety of the building. In the courtyard, the tour includes an interesting spiral staircase. A chapel, now destroyed, projected into the courtyard. The main building, today turned into administrative offices, housed a common area on one side and on the other an area for  carriages.

The origin of the Hotel de Sens dates back to the days when Paris was a dependent of the bishopric Archdiocese of Sens, until 1622. When the archbishops of Sens were called to Paris, they had to reside in a home worthy of their rank. It is Tristan de Salazar, Archbishop of Sens from 1474-1519, that we can thank for the construction of the prestigious Hotel de Sens, in accordance with his taste for magnificence. The tympanum of the two doors of the Hotel de Sens include images of Tristan de Salazar's weapons as well as the city of Sens.

This prelate protected the arts. If today the hotel is home to the Forney Library, it is perhaps in memory of this illustrious ancestor. The Hotel de Sens had several famous guests, the most ledgendary being Queen Marguerite de Valois, who stayed there quite some time. Queen Margaret – known also as Queen Margot and from Alexandre Dumas' novel - left the hotel after her lover was killed there by Varmont, a young nobleman, on April 5, 1606. Varmont was beheaded at the scene of the crime two days later in presence of the queen.

The Hotel de Sens lost its importance from 1622, when Paris was made Archdiocese. From that date, the hotel was leased to the Lyon coaches and housed various industrial and artisanal activities. Bought in 1911 by the city of Paris, the Hotel de Sens has since 1961 housed the Forney library, specializing in art and technology. Exhibitions are held regularly there. The Hotel de Sens is a must for anyone wanting to educate themselves with documents bequeathed by Aimé-Samuel Ferney in the 19th century and that make up the unique and valuable base of this vast collection. 230,000 books, posters and magazines available in all languages including English, Chinese, Italian, and German are entirely devoted to the decorative arts, advertising and crafts.

You will notice high on the main facade a cannonball stuck in the stone. It is one of the many cannonballs that were fired at the hotel, then the symbol of religion, during the revolution of 1830. It has been deliberately left in place to commemorate this event, which almost completely destroyed the building.

Hotel de Sens – Bibliothèque Forney
1, rue du Figuier 75004
Tel : 01 42 78 14 60

Report by Arnaud Sellier, Photos by Pascal Fonquernie, © parismarais.com 2013