The Arsenal is the port of Paris which connects the Seine to the Canal Saint-Martin and borders the eastern side of the Marais, from Bastille to the river. Starting from the Place de la Bastille have a look up to see the statue on top of the « colonne de juillet » which was built in honor of the 1830 Revolution.
When the Bastille prison was destroyed in 1789, many projects were envisioned to replace what had once been a symbol of the monarchy. The most ambitious was a gigantic fountain with an elephant statue in the middle ! This project was never achieved however, and instead, the column which was erected resembles those in Berlin in Tiergarten and in London on Trafalgar Square.
The only remains of the Bastille can be seen as simulated fortress traces on the traffic circle at the beginning of the rue Saint-Antoine, which is actually the entrance to the fourth arrondissement. Walk or even bicycle down the quais as many new bike paths have been created and enjoy a completely different vision of the Marais including boats and views that resemble Amsterdam more than Paris ! A couple of nice open-air restaurants and cafés allow you to lay down on the grass with a drink or a snack and enjoy the view of the port. You will notice that many fortunate people have converted old industrial boats into houseboats and have an unusal and less costly lifestyle than most other residents of the Marais.
Reaching the Seine, turn left onto boulevard Morland that leads to the headquarters of the Parisian republican guard. Just across the street, there is an exhibition hall called the Pavillon de l’Arsenal that shows everything relating to the history of Paris architecture through models and photographs, as well as upcoming projects to renew the City of Lights. Next to Monceau Fleurs (an institution to buy plants and flowers at reasonable prices) you will see a magnificent brick and stone structure dated early 17th century typical of the Baroque Age in Paris, which is now a private school. Make a stop to have a closer look at every detail, such as angels and lions surrounding every window which create an effect very similar to Roccocco style.
Following the quais heading towards the center of town, you will soon enter the Village Saint-Paul packed with antique dealers and design shops. Then heading back to the Bastille, you will notice one of Paris’ most famous gastronomic institutions, Bofinger, and on the other side of the Place, the already dated « new » Opera created by François Mitterand in 1984. Despite it’s disappointing architecture, the interior hall is gigantic and can welcome up to 3,000 spectators with seats starting at only 5 €. Of course, very few cheap seats are available, but even the most expensive are sold at a third below production costs (around 130 €) as culture is highly subsidized in France by the government.
Give up the idea of climbing up the column – it is closed to the public for security reasons, but you’re welcome to seat at Le Café Français’terrace just facing and sing La Marseillaise !
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